The regal Lotus, viewings at Mimurotoji, Hōkongōin & Mizunomori

If you follow this blog for a bit you might know I'm sort of a flower-buff! In an earlier article I wrote about Ajisai, or Hydrangea, the flower of early summer. The Sanzen-in at Ohara, as well as Mimurotoji in Uji are famous places to see Ajisai. But, when the hydragea's power is wilting it gives way to another star in the flower kingdom, the Lotus. A very important flower in Buddhist religion, it's no wonder Buddhist temple Mimuroto is one of the best places to contemplate this iconic flower. Mimurotoji however, does not exactly sport that natural flower pond, which you would expect. But the square in front of the temple contains some oblong cement basins surrounded by big flower pots all around. It is not as natural an environment as one might wish for, but through the abundance and the beauty of the many blooming pink and white lotus flowers, it is one of the best picks indeed. Not to mention the hugely impressive bull frogs or amazingly beautiful big dragon flies! I never heard the sound of a bull frog before, let alone seen one. So when I heard one calling out from between the lotus leaves it gave me quite a scare for a second. When I realised that is was a bull frog, I was completely fascinated. It's a sound you should really hear, or even 'experience', at least once in a lifetime!

The good thing about the solution with the flower pots is that you can get up close and personal with the flowers and study them from every side. It's intriguing to examine the beautiful lotus from this close. Their hearts are tremendously interesting, it's almost sensual how they are created to attract insects.

After visiting Mimurotoji on July 9th, I wanted to see more of the queen amongst the flowers. So I planned for a trip to Houkongouin, in the west of Kyoto. The grounds of the Hōkongō temple are quite a bit smaller than of the Mimurotoji and are located in a rural area. What immediately stands out when entering the garden is the utterly ugly building, towering over the green fence of trees. A sore to the eye unfortunately. But when you succeed in ignoring this monstrosity you will find that 'natural' flower pond in front of the temple. And it's completely taken over by the huge leaves of the Lotus flower. Indeed, regrettably there were almost only leaves to admire. It must be a pretty great sight when the lotus flowers, but now I could only find one or two in bloom. There were also a few flower buds, but nowhere near of coming to blossom.

I understand that the Lotus has it's flowering peak around the first week of July and blooms till the end of August. So I thought I was right(ish) on time when I was visiting on July 18th. Maybe the pond gets a second peak period when the flower buds I've seen get to blossom. The garden however is rather charming, and has more to offer. For instance tiny waterlillies in their little basins and also Hydrangea (at their prime around the half of June). Otherwise it's not the most interesting temple in Kyoto. Which might be truly unfair, because Kyoto knows so many temples and shrines, it's hard to compete!

Knowing that the Lotus would probably be over it's prime, was it maybe a tad risky to take another Lotus trip? Perhaps, but I am glad I did. This time on July 23rd and the location was Mizunomori. Mizunomori is an 'aquapark' as they call it. A botanical garden, right next to an inlet of Biwa Lake, in the vicinity of Kusatsu and Otsu. You don't actually have to enter the garden to see the Lotus field in Biwa Lake, but why wouldn't you? It's a pleasant garden with a an abundance of flowers, specially the small types of multi coloured water lillies are really nice to see. Have a stroll through the garden en then exit at the back to see the Lotus field in the lake (You can re-enter Mizunomori). Indeed, a big part of the Lotus field was without flowers, but a good part on the east side was still blooming beautifully. It would have been a hugely impressive sight had the whole field been in bloom, but I was completely satisfied I had the chance to see it as it was.

Tip: The bus from Kusatsu drives up and down in 30 minutes to Mizunomori only once an hour.  Keep this in mind when taking the train, so you don't miss the buss by a minute or two (guess who did). Both the station square and Mizunomori have a cafe, so lunch and drinks are no problem. 
Take the same bus frequency in consideration for Mimurotoji in Uji, although you have to time your trip there even better, because there are no cafes near the temple.

Early summer, the cool blue of Ajisai (Hydrangea) at Sanzen-in

Summer in Kyoto is getting hotter and hotter every day! Time to take a 'hike' and look for higher ground. Ohara, in the north part of Kyoto is up in the mountains and at least a few degrees 'colder'. Pfieuw I need a bit of that! So, on a sweltering hot day I thought it best to leave the busy city behind and visit this lush green side of Kyoto. Early summer, we've established now, the weather in Japan is very hot already. But it's also the time for Ajisai. This is the Japanese name for Hydrangea.

Ohara is famous for their Sanzen-in temple every day of the year, but even more so when the Ajisai are in bloom. What a wonderful combination when being all flustered and sticky with the summer heat to gaze upon the cool blue of Hydrangea flowers. Although I must admit under the piercing sun even the Ajisai seemed a bit listless in the garden of Sanzen-in. And to think I even 'dressed up' for the occasion, with my Ajisai-coloured nail polish!

Luckily the temple itself is wonderful, and I especially liked the charming little, moss covered Buddha statues with their smiling faces. Or what about a good taste of red Shiso juice I got for free in the garden? Shiso is one of my favorite flavours of Japan. A leaf belonging to the mint family, often served with sashimi dishes has a very unique and distinctive taste. If you've never tried it, find them, it's delicious! If you prefer a saver taste, you can drink green tea and peer over the blue ripples of Hydrangea beneath the tea house.

The Sanzen-in is not even the only thing to see at Ohara. It's got quite a 'touristy feel', this part of town, but only busy on special days. For instance Ohara-me, a festival I wrote about in this article in May. Because of the numerous tourists Ohara attracts through the year, many traditional Japanese restaurants grace the small, cobbled streets where Yuzu (an amazing tasting citrus fruit), red Shiso and other yummy food can be tasted. If you're a fan of Tsukemono (Japanese pickles), Ohara is a good place to stroll through and get a nibble here and there.

Mimuroto-ji temple in Uji, to the south of Kyoto, is also very famous for their Ajisai as well as the Lotus garden. When I went to Mimurotoji however, the Hydrangea were over their peak and many bushes already trimmed. I read that at this temple 10.000 Hydrangea bushes grow. Surprisingly, when I was there visitors were not even allowed to go into that part of the garden were the Hydrangea were still blooming.... But I could look into the garden and take a few snap shots. It does look promising doesn't it?


Later this  month I will post an article about the Lotus garden of Mimuroto-ji.

June: The famous iris pond at Heian Jinja Shrine

As promised in my May article about 'iris viewing' I returned to the Heian Jinja Shrine garden this month. At exactly June 15th, as the gardener at the shrine promised the irises would be 'ichi ban' (the best). And he was right, it was a feast for the eyes. In June the rabbit-ear iris, kakitsubata, might have wilted but now it is time for hanashobu. Hanashobu is the Japanese name for the Japanese iris, a flower family that knows over 2000 cultivars! The iris might not be as popular as the cherry blossoms (sakura) in Japan, but the 200 gardens in this country displaying the iris get visited by two million iris-enthusiasts each year.

For the Japanese, nature is very important, even though they might transport nature to the indoors. Iris displays for viewing purposes is a seasonal past time in Japan. Irises in pots are displayed along the walls and some specimen are even displayed in the tokonoma. The tokonoma is the most important space in a traditional Japanese home. It's an alcove with a raised dais where special objects of art are displayed. These can be scrolls, figurines, and often ikebana arrangements or sometimes bonsai, thus also seasonal flowers like hanashobu.

The root that nature and the seasons are as important for the Japanese lies in their upbringing of the naturalistic Shinto religion that every (living) thing has it's own kami. A kami is a god in Japanese, for Shinto knows not one god, but many. Even though not all Japanese practice Shinto and many mix Shinto rituals with Buddhist religion, every Japanese person is brought up with the belief that every object and even phenomena have a spirit. A wonderful thing that is easily visible in their respect for nature. (On the other hand the Japanese are infamous for their lack of preserving nature as well, which is one of the many, many contradictions in Japanese society).

Private persons at least show their respect for nature by consequently picking up litter from gardens and any where else they encounter 'nature'. When viewing a display of irises at someone's home, guests kneel and bow, if they appreciate the form of the flower. The Heian Jinja shrine garden has many species to enjoy outside, I think I saw at least ten of them. The three most important varieties are the Edo, Higo and Ise type. Every one of these types displays the unique esthetic senses of the three Japanese regions. The Ise type shows a pendent flower (picture 1 & 2, from left to right). The Edo type shows a horizontal flower (picture 3). The Higo type is arched (picture 4 & 5). Even when one does not know this, the display of different shades of purple, pink and white is magnificent.

PS: I got the best information about hanashobu through this article by Hiroshi Shimizu.

Catching Kingfisher 'in the wild'

Even is you're not a fervent bird watcher, one can only be in awe of the beauty of this little one. And in Kyoto you only have to take a subway ride to see them 'in the wild'. Kyoto's Botanical Garden is obviously favorited by the colourful birds with their big head and long bill. When I reached the Nakaragi pond, two Kingfisher were flying on and of, catching small fish in flight. I approached carefully though. Another photographer, looking very serious, was aiming for them already. My presence with a meager 200mm lens was condoned however when I showed proper respect and kept quiet.

It seems this spot at the Kyoto Botanical Garden is well known amongst Kingfisher enthusiasts. When I went back a few days later I found not only one, but three photographers with huge camera's. One was as long as my arm and had a lens as big as my face! This one even had a sticker of the Kingfisher on his camera. After some time waiting together at the rainy pond with a gaijin woman in their midst  the three relaxed a bit and began showing me their pictures of the Kingfisher on their camera. Obviously beautiful pictures! Well, I could only show them mine, didn't I?! So, I showed them the picture above and I think they were a little impressed that I succeeded with my very small, unimpressive camera. At least it was Nikon, a Japanese brand! We waited some more, but the rain was maybe too heavy, the Kingfisher did not show itself.

Kyoto's Botanical Garden should be one of the most beautiful ones of Japan. Actually, I hope this is not true. The expansive grounds measuring 240,000 m2 might be a bit too much work for the gardeners. At the entrance I got a cold welcome with big lawns of concrete. After that I couldn't find the immaculate tidiness, which Japan is so famous for, anywhere in the garden. Even Wikipedia sums up 'well-tended' in the first sentence about botanical gardens, so not too much to expect.
Although there is beauty to be found. For instance the Ume (Plum) grove, the Japanese Iris garden and the Nakaragi pond are great. I expect the Lotus pond to be amzing when it is in bloom, or earlier in the year when it is lined with blossoming cherry trees. The Japanese style garden however was non-existent (!) and the Japanese Native Plants garden looked like it was forgotten for about a few years as well as the 'exhibition' of bonsai trees… Rather strange for a botanical garden in Japan.

The Kyoto Botanical Garden however lies in a nice neighbourhood, at Kitayama subway station. And it's only 200 yen, so there's nothing to loose (The conservatory is another 200 yen). You can also take a stroll along the beautiful Kamo river or take lunch at one of the various cafe's opposite the Kitayama Gate.

Fireflies in Uji, like magic from a children's book

Yesterday evening, around 19:30 o'clock I enjoyed one of the greatest experiences of this trip, at least! I went firefly viewing at Uji's Botanical Garden. A charming, small garden nonetheless, yesterday was all about the fireflies.

At the east of the garden a little stream flows pleasantly through the Maple grove (Momiji Bayashi) and the Konara oak Grove (Konara Bayashi). It  offers the fireflies a dense 'forest' with a lot of ground foliage where they can safely fly about. Look for the darkest spots, that's where you find them. Actually, the very best spot is at the right from the small pond at the far end of the Konara Bayashi between the low bamboo plants.

Each day, the website shows a summary of the day before, with the amount of fireflies flying and of cars on the parking deck. (Busses 240 and 250 also drive back and fourth between the Botanical Garden and Uji Station). Yesterday seemed the perfect evening, since around 8 o'clock the fireflies were ''flying a lot'' and the car deck was almost empty. What more can you wish for?

The best time of the evening is between 19 and 19:30 o'clock, when the first fireflies light up and the visitors and yourself, will murmur in excitement. Children are hushed kindly as not to disturb the magic of the evening. You will feel like a little kid in a children's book when the fairy like scene unfolds itself in front of you. Half an hour later is the busiest time with fireflies flitting above the stream and sometimes crossing the path so you can almost touch them.

Firefly Festival at Uji Botanical Garden started at May 26th and you can still enjoy the fireflies until the 17th of June. Extended opening hours apply during the festival, until 21:30 o'clock. In the Kansai region I know of three other spots that celebrate firefly festivals. I'll try and visit at least one of these other festivals and tell you about it at So Kyoto!

Keihanna Commemorative Park
At the Suikei garden at Seika Tow. Through June 17th.
I posted earlier about the Suikei-en, see this article.

Tanikawa Firefly Park
On the Minamitani River, at the Town of Ide. Throughout summer.

Kanbayashi-sanso villa
At the City of Ayabe. Mid-June.

PS: I know these pictures are definitely not the best firefly pictures out there! I do not have the proper equipment for  these hard conditions, being in... total darkness :) It's more about fun and imagination. And I needed some pictures to go with this story after all!

Three times iris viewing in May, a flower worth a poem

Last month I visited three of the most famous spots in Kyoto for iris viewing, for the month of May is the perfect time for this flower that inspired poets in Japan since ages. One of the oldest poems, from the Heian period (794 to 1185) recounts about the iris at Ōta Shrine. The iris pond at Ōta Shrine, or Ōhta Shrine, is so famous and beautiful that it is a National Natural Treasure. These irises flowering early to half May are called rabbit-ear iris, Kakitsubata in Japanese:

''Kamiyama ya ōta no sawa no kakitsubata
Fukaki tanomi wa iro ni miyu ramu''

''Like the kakitsubata at Ōta Wetland, a God-sent heaven,
my trust in you can be seen in the color of their flowers.''

The famous irises create a cloud of purple which can't be matched (see no.'s 1). To realize that they have been showing their splendour to their admirers for over a thousand years is equally stunning. You can watch the spectacle day and night and you do not even need a ticket. Although a 300 yen donation is of course appreciated. You can just leave it in the donation box. When you've seen enough and can only see purple spots in front of your eyes, pray for good health or a happy marriage at the shrine that is dedicated to the god of plentiful harvests.

Starting at the top, every visit after this would have to be a letdown of course. Additionally, timing is difficult when it comes to nature. The timing at Ōta Shrine was absolutely perfect, on May 14th. But I can't help but thinking I was too late at Heian Shrine (May 16th, no.'s 2) and Umenomiya Taisha (May 17th, no's 3) to find the irises in their prime. Alas, no time left to visit the fourth most famous iris viewing spot, Oharano Shrine.

Fortunately I do have a second chance in June at Heian Shrine. Other species will bloom that moth, hanashobu and ayame. In May there was no cloud of purple, or yellow, or white... Just a few specks here and there. Luckily, Heian Shrine garden has other features that do make a visit worth wile. The garden contains three ponds, with great amounts of water lilies, which are also a raffle to see. The last pond does not even need flowers, but is magnificent through the beautiful bridge built over the water.

Umenomiya Taisha garden was less of a sight, so bedraggled it was somewhat funny and strange to walk through the rusty gate and rather unkempt garden. Although, when the timing is right, it could be worth the trip to this slightly out of the way place with a tower of sake barrels to worship. Umenomiya should at least be a showcase of the most species of iris when they're blooming (apart form Kyoto Botanical garden maybe). Well, June arrived and I'm ready for another round!

Suikei garden at Keihanna Commemorative Park

The phrase 'of the beaten path' is surely true for Keihanna Commemorative Park and it's Suikei garden. The trip to this garden therefore is not for the tourists with just a few days on their hands. However, if you have more time and are interested in gardens (I am!), a visit to Suikei-en is something different.

Keihanna Park is situated in Seika, a 40 minute train ride from Kyoto Station. At Seika, take the bus for about 15 minutes and get out at Keihanna Park. The park seems to be in the middle of nowhere since Seika is not the most beautiful village in Kansai, but it features one particular notable garden, Suikei-en ('en' means garden in Japanese). The garden is a showcase of traditional Japanese landscape techniques like I've never seen before.

What makes the garden notable for instance is the very impressive 150 metres long Ganshou (reef). A huge cluster of rectangular rocks about 7 metres high that 'recreates the wildness of nature'. The 500 rocks weigh between 20 to 40 tons each, the heaviest rock even weighs 70 tons. They originate from Inujima island in Okayama Prefecture (225 km and a ferry ride away) and are called Sabimikageishi.

Furthermore, there is an exhibition space, a walking lovely and mossy path that contains a few small and one big waterfall, a small rice paddy (depending on the season) and a lake with Suikeidana. These are a succession of stairs in the lake that provide it with an energetic sight. Rising up from the water stands a 4 metres wide, 123 metres long and 10 metres high bridge, a wonderful feature. During my visit the 'Kangetsukyo Bridge' was graced with two strings of huge koinobori. These are streamers of fish, the koi carp that Japan is well known for. I've written about koinobori before, in this article.

A tip that might be welcome: The park and garden do not contain a café, only a vending machine for drinks and ice cream as a short term solution. Would you like to go for lunch or diner after your visit, opposite Shin-Hosono station to the left, you'll find a great kaiseki restaurant, Kyo-Suigetsu. And the only one in Seika for that matter! Unfortunately I was too late to catch lunch (last order 14:30 o'clock) and was obliged to eat a snack at the shopping centre directly opposite the station. Not something I would recommend. So pack a nice picnic or get to the restaurant in time for a wonderful conclusion of your day.

For more information, visit the Keihanna Park website (Japanese).

Six weeks of blossom viewing, breathtakingly beautiful

This is the fifth time I'm visiting Japan, but the first time I had the opportunity to really watch the spectacle and metamorphosis of the land and it's people during blossom season. To take it all in, at least I had all the time in the world this year round and made 16 trips to watch this famous spectacle!

And just as well, I took about 400 photo's starting from March 14th when the plum blossom (ume) started blossoming until just yesterday I took some pictures near my home of some late blossoming cherry trees (sakura). And there are still trees that won't give up and spread their wealth of flowers and perfume!

It might seem the blossom season only lasts one week, the first week of April is one of the busiest times in Kyoto most years, but I found the season can take up to eight weeks. Depending on the weather of course and the region you're in. Another fact I was not aware of is that, for instance, Tokyo is way ahead of Kyoto when it comes to the timing of the blossoming trees, although Tokyo lies 465 km (288 mi) farther north. Well, there you go, traveling up from the south of Japan up north to the beat of sakura isn't even all that simple!

During the past six weeks I learned some more about blossoms. It seems 'ume' for the Japanese is not as breathtakingly thrilling as sakura is. As I was informed by a Japanese lady that sakura season was coming up, I enthusiastically showed her the pictures I already took at the Zuishin-in during the Hanezu Odori Dance. She was not impressed, because these showed plum blossom, not cherry blossom. Well, that's one lesson learned. I was indeed a bit surprised by the vigour the Japanese show at seeing one tiny petal of sakura. They immediately flip out their mobile phones or swoop in with whole kitchen steps and professional bags full of lenses to get the right angle. But, I must admit, after a few 'Hanami' trips I am taken by the sakura-fever too! (Hanami literately means 'flower viewing', and than means cherry blossom in Japan as we've learned now).

I rated the trips I made by the best blossom viewing:
1. Miho museum in Shiga. I went there two times even, because the first time it was too early for the blossom as it turned out. The second time I got rewarded with a sea of bright pink. The Miho museum strangely enough is not well known, even by the Japanese, so there were almost no other visitors (at 10:00 - 11:00 am). which, in a way is a goo thing when you go blossom viewing! Here's a link to my earlier Miho Museum article. On the way back from the museum (by car) I passed the little town of Ritto and was treated on a wealth of sakura lining the river! (1b)

2. Near Ashiyagawa station at Ashiya, west of Osaka. Tranquility and pleasantness, at the peak of the sakura season. Seat yourself on the grassy banks of the river, and hear the water flow while your eyes are on the sakura and the mountains above. Pure bliss.

3. Along the river between station Shukugawa and Koroen station in Nishinomya, west of Osaka. A wonderful place, a great photo opportunity. However, far more crowded than Ashiya, but very beautiful nonetheless.

4. Along the Kamogawa River, near Kyoto Botanical Garden. An oasis to spend a day and have a picnic, even without sakura! The cherry trees reach as far as the eyes can see, both ways. Note that the darker pink weeping cherry trees, along Nakaragi-no-michi path, blossom a while later in the season.

5. Kiyomizudera and Higashiyama (5b), including San-Mon Gate (5c) in front of Chion-in in Kyoto. The neighbourhood around Kiyomizudera is one of my favorite places to stroll through. There are a lot of easy photo opportunities here, also with lovely kimono clad girls (ask nicely and they pose for you!). Sometimes you even meet maiko-henshin (tourists that are dressed up for the day as maiko, which is an apprentice geisha). Note that Higashiyama is also one of the busiest places in Kyoto, so go really early. The views from Kiyomuzudera over the mountain beneath dotted with sakura trees is beautiful.

6. Zuishin-in in Kyoto (ume blossom), during the Hanezu Odori Dance. The temple is known for it's 'Hanezu Plum Trees', hanezu meaning a light red colour in Japanese. It's one of my favorites , because of the dance event and I happen to love ume. Plus it were the first trees blossoming in Kyoto and has great photo opportunities, also of other photographers! Here's a link to my earlier article about the Zuishin-in Plum Blossom Festival.

7. Honryuji Temple at Kyoto. The perfume these trees radiate is enormous! A very special, quiet place where you'll probably only meet one or two other photographers, even at the peak of the sakura season.

8. Philosophers Path (Tetsugaku no michi) at Kyoto. I went two times as it is one of the most popular spots. As it turned out it is really hard to time well with sakura, because the neighborhood around Philosophers Path was teeming with blossom, the Patch itself was barren, showing a wintery scene. Not much fun. A few weeks later, when I went back, it was a bit too late for sakura. However it is a very pleasant path once the trees have their foliage and I would definitely recommend a stroll on a beautiful day!

9. The north side of Keage (station) at Kyoto. From the old Boat Railway and Lake Biwa Aquaduct Museum, that show many sakura trees. Then take the Shishigatani-dori and feel yourself enveloped by ancient Kyoto with numerous temples along the road, dotted with sakura trees here and there. This road leads to Philosophers Path.

10. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. An amazing place which I later will make a post about. But I was not there when the sakura was at it's best so I can't really tell about that. But even without sakura the temple complex feels mystical and has an ancient atmosphere, be sure to not miss it while in Kyoto.

11.Tō-ji Temple in Kyoto. I was there during the famous antique market at the end of march. It's my favorite market here, and I was treated on some beautiful ume, but the temple doesn't have many ume trees.This link shows my earlier pictures at Tō-ji Temple. You'd maybe better go during the blossoming of sakura (I haven't been there at the prime time).

12. Kodaji-in at Kyoto. Beautiful garden, specially during the light festival it's worth a visit. But, it has only one sakura tree, so don't expect more than that.

13. Jonan-gu Shrine in Kyoto. Plum tree & Camellia festival. Nice, but challenging photo opportunity. I would advise to go early March, for the Camellia. These and ume do not peak at the same time, so it's difficult to see both at their best.

14. Sakura at Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine at Kyoto. This was the biggest disappointment, shock even, of the sakura season! An unparalleled commercial event. It's outrageously popular among the Kyotites for Hanami picnics, taking with them huge amounts of blue plastic and there are loud coloured food stalls everywhere. Yasaka shrine is supposed to be a popular sakura spot, but I thought the sakura was almost non-existent. You better visit Maruyama Park before or after this 'craze' of Hanami picnics.

Apart from the last entry, looking back at these last few eeks, it was all quite impressive! The hardest thing about Hanami was, naturally, that blossom trees don't flower at the same time. And it's very difficult to predict when they are at their best at which location. I found sometimes I was too early and sometimes too late. Ah, nature is unwieldy… I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can 'Hanami' another time!

In honour of one of the most beautiful woman in the world

Ono no Komachi, poet in Japan in the early Heian period, was considered to be one of the three most beautiful women in the world. She was the only woman of the rokkasen, the Six best waka poets of her era. (Waka is a classical Japanese short poem.) The Six waka poets were also known as the Six Poetic Geniuses. A thousand years have gone by, but the famous poems of Ono no Komachi are still read today and 'Komachi' became a synonym for feminine beauty in Japan.

The Zuishin-in (temple) is connected with the remembrance of this extraordinary woman. Every year, on the last Sunday of March Ono no Komachi is honoured with the performance Hanezu Odori Dance. Hanezu is an old Japanese word meaning 'light red colour'. Which can be seen in the beautiful shade of red in the kimono of the dancers. The name of the colour does also refer to the late-blossoming ume (plum) trees adorning the 'Ono Plum Garden' of Zuishin-in. The blossoms of these plum trees have this same light red colour and are therefore called 'Hanezu Plum Trees'.

The two slow and elegant dances are performed four times on the day and accompanied with live music through traditional instruments. It is a popular event, so come early if you would like to sit on the benches. Otherwise, join the many photographers on the back rows. Better even, take your own stepladder!
Afterwards enjoy some traditional Japanese food, like soba, and stroll through the Ono Plum Garden. Not only to enjoy the blossoming trees, but also to enjoy the excitement that takes hold of the Japanese nation when the first blossoming flower shows itself! 

Link to the website of the Zuishin-in (Japanese), for address and directions.

'Hanatouro' 10th anniversary of the Higashiyama light festival

Higashiyama is a traditional neighborhood breathing culture and history since the 14th century. It surrounds the famous temple of Kiyomizu dera and the Shoren-in temple at he eastern side of Kyoto. Every year a Light festival, called Hanatouro, is organized, this year celebrating it's 10th anniversary.

From March10th till March 20th, thousands of tourists enjoy the famous 5 km long route lined with approximately 2400 lanterns and large ikebana displays (Japanese flower arrangements). Many of the temples and shrines along the route invite you for their evening openings to watch special light displays. There is so much to see, one evening would not be enough to see it all. I expected long lines of waiting tourists at the temples, but the 'touro' seems to spread out so far, it can contain all those couples in love, families, photographers(!) and other visitors easily. I visited two temples and their gardens and one light show and didn't have to wait more than two minutes each time.

First I paid the Shoren-in temple a visit, founded in the 12th century, which has a beautiful garden with waterfall, bamboo grove and amazing buildings on the premises. In the garden tiny little blue lights turned on and of every few minutes, just like fireflies. Beautiful!

The second visit was to the Yuzen-en garden of the Chion-in temple. A huge temple complex, with a lovely little garden with a great karesansui (dry rock garden), modestly illuminated. Surprisingly, after a visit to this sacred place that was established some 700 years ago, each visitor gets complimentary Mc Donald's vouchers at the exit! What a strong contrast. :)

The most amazing show I've seen was beamed on the San-mon Gate (built in 1619), leading to the Chion-in temple. An almost 12 minute long light show made use of the intricate pattern of the huge gate which is 24 metres high and 50 metres wide. Colour patterns, lines, birds and other creatures moved over the immensely huge gate with such splendor, it was absolutely mesmerizing and and amazing end to a magnificent evening.