Sugoi! Japanese fireworks in July

Bam! Bam! Bam! Who doesn't like a good fireworks show?! Or hanabi, as it is called in Japan. The Japanese know their hanabi, real artisans are at work here. From hearts, smileys and all kinds of 'fire flowers' the professionals know what they're doing and keep innovating their art. As most fireworks in Japan take place during the hottest period of the year, August, I was lucky to find two firework shows in the Kansai area that took place in July. On the 22nd, a festival was organized in Ashiya, Osaka.
Because the Japanese won't only lit a few fire crackers, you can easily spend a good part of the day celebrating the matsuri with food stalls, little games and short performances from dancers, singers and even theater shows. Unfortunately the 22nd it was dreary weather. Not the kind of festival weather everyone had hoped for. Although my head was spinning with all the amazingly beautiful yukata (unlined summer kimono) I saw, there was no way to take pictures in the rain. So it was wonderful luck when the rain stopped at the start of the fireworks show!

A good thing I had bought a ¥ 2000 ticket for a seat that I could 'reserve' before walking around the festival grounds. In Japan is not strange to come early at an event and 'reserve' yourself (and your friends!) a good seat by placing personal items on a chair and come back hours later. These items could be fans, drinks, magazines, towels or even a handbag. No one will touch your stuff and your seat is there for you, and your personal belongings, when you get back. There's a positive side and maybe a negative side to this 'reserving' system that everyone respects. The best part of course is that everyone leaves your stuff alone (I ❤ Japan!).

It seemed me and my friends had claimed some great seats, and we could see the show perfectly. The fireworks were lit from the water, in the bay. Many people had taken their place on the beach on blankets and we had seats at the edge of the beach, a little elevated, with free sight on the spectacle. The most spectacular thing was an all-red fireworks piece with a lot of hearts in it after which someone asked his girlfriend to marry him. And she said yes! Aaaaaah, romantic!
After this, the organization took the time to educate the public a little bit with hanabi bingo. Every time just one arrow was shot in the air which you could find on your bingo card. With each new shot it was told what kind of firework you had just seen. But then the real fireworks started and it was amazing! Next year I should maybe plan to visit Japan in August to see more firework shows!

And what could be more festive on your birthday than to see a fireworks show? Osaka obliged and organized another festival on July 25th on the Okawa river. This 'matsuri' was even more extensive. Lots of boats were navigating the river by motor or by oarsmen. Many of the boats sported dancers, singers, musicians and other performers, some even traditional treasures. And all clapped the same simple rhythm to each other and to the people on the bridges: clap clap, clap clap, clap clap.... clap! It all contributed to very festive mood with a lot of calling out and merriment.
The river banks were lined by many yatai (food stands) with all kinds of junk food: karaage, takoyaki, okonomiyaki, Wiener wursten, frozen bananas, cream puffs and some even had fresh fruit or cucumbers. All the traditional Japanese festival food was there and also the little games for kids to play. To my excitement many girls came in the colourful summer dress of Japan, a yukata. It seems Osaka is trying to encourage visitors and inhabitants of Osaka to wear yukata and kimono more often, to enhance the attractiveness of the city. Well, it works for me!

Fun & games at Kamigamo Shrine Handmade Market

The open-air Handmade market (Tezukuri Ichi ) at Kamigamo Shrine, every 4th Sunday of the month, has absolutely everything in store for a fun day out! Kamigamo Shrine lies close to the Kamo river and offers splendid views on the mountains surrounding east Kyoto as well as providing a lush green 'woodsy' park and even an small stream. Young parents and their children lounge or picnic underneath the trees and play in the little stream, which gives a warm summer Sunday the perfect atmosphere.

I visited the market in June, the month of Gotanshin Sai. This is a festival where a large ring of fresh reeds is made at the entrance of many shrines. Walking through this ring in an eight-shaped fashion affords you protection against summer infections. On top of all this, a wedding just took place at the shrine and the beaming couple took the time to pose for me, Omedetou! (You can just see the ring behind them)

And as if these things do not bring enough amusement in itself, visiting the market makes for even more fun. And what a fast market this is! It sprawls over the temple grounds into the little nooks and crannies as long as the sellers can put up their booths.

So, what is there to see, taste and buy at Kamigamo Shrine? Well, I sampled some of the very best chocolates I ever tasted in my life! Thinking back even makes mu mouth water. Mr. Tsutomu Kitagawa, Chocolatier of Double Sept presented ganache chocolates at his booth with different kinds of liquor, tea, herbs and nuts. And I did not need a cold package to go with that. No, I ate them at the spot, hmmmmmmmm!

Furthermore there were a lot of tasty looking sweets, breads, savory items and drinks to be tried. As well as there was wonderful handmade wood work, clothing, toys, stamps, jewelry, postcards, ceramics, bags, mobiles, painted umbrella's, plants even and lots, lots more. I also liked the coffee stands nicely spread out over the market, so you're never short of a great ice coffee and a biscuit. Or maybe a cabbage… A cabbage? Well yeah, I opted to buy a funny looking pencil case but it turned out the lining was not finished yet. So the seller asked me if I had time to wait for it and stroll around a bit more in the mean time. Well, yeah! I got all the time in the world, no problem whatsoever to linger a bit longer on this gorgeous day. After coming back to buy the pencil case I got a complimentary cabbage, for having to wait! Well, what more could you want from a great day out in Kyoto?

Better food & Cool Biz at Kyoto Tower's Beer Garden

June 1st I wrote a post about New Hankyu's Beer Garden. Last week I went up to the roof garden of Kyoto Tower to make a comparison. (What one has to endure to write a blog!) This is what I found after thorough research:
The food was much better, more choice, more taste and it was even better to look at. For mains and side dished there was so much to choose from, like fresh salmon and seared tuna, a whole range of kushi and fried dishes, rice and noodles, mini sandwiches, fries and Wieners and so forth. I could stuff myself on the fruit and cake bar only! Food might still be better at a regular restaurant, but those do not have Kyoto Tower, or a roof top for that matter!

Another great asset was the roof top awning, because the evenings in Kyoto can still be very hot. Eating in the blistering sun, and drinking for that matter, is no fun! Luckily I didn't need it, I had wonderful weather, actually just perfect, and look at that beautiful sky....

Ok, moving on. The third reason Kyoto Tower might be a better choice is just plain money. Kyoto Tower's Beer Garden will set you back 'only' 3000 yen and you eat and drink as much as you like between 17:30 and 21:00 o'clock. This price is valid until July first, after that, it's 3500 yen till September 1st. Then it's 3000 yen again. Kyoto Tower Beer Garden however does not make a difference between men and women. New Hankyu does make that difference and has an intricate table with prices going up every month, but being less expensive on certain weekdays. Men pay 500 yen more than women on any day. More info on their website.

The thing that could be said for New Hankyu however is the atmosphere. It's quite different since you'll be amongst business men, or as they are called in Japan 'salarymen'. It makes you feel more being a part of Kyoto's community. As for Kyoto Tower, it seems like it gets frequented by more tourists and there were definitely less ties and jackets. The latter could also be the result of 'Cool Biz' season starting, later turning into 'Super Cool Biz', where salarymen are allowed to wear more casual clothes because of the sweltering heat. (See Huffington Post).

I would say 'forget about New Hankyu Hotel's B-B Paradise! Join me at Kyoto Tower Beer Garden and keep off the cakes please!'

Fireflies in Uji, like magic from a children's book

Yesterday evening, around 19:30 o'clock I enjoyed one of the greatest experiences of this trip, at least! I went firefly viewing at Uji's Botanical Garden. A charming, small garden nonetheless, yesterday was all about the fireflies.

At the east of the garden a little stream flows pleasantly through the Maple grove (Momiji Bayashi) and the Konara oak Grove (Konara Bayashi). It  offers the fireflies a dense 'forest' with a lot of ground foliage where they can safely fly about. Look for the darkest spots, that's where you find them. Actually, the very best spot is at the right from the small pond at the far end of the Konara Bayashi between the low bamboo plants.

Each day, the website shows a summary of the day before, with the amount of fireflies flying and of cars on the parking deck. (Busses 240 and 250 also drive back and fourth between the Botanical Garden and Uji Station). Yesterday seemed the perfect evening, since around 8 o'clock the fireflies were ''flying a lot'' and the car deck was almost empty. What more can you wish for?

The best time of the evening is between 19 and 19:30 o'clock, when the first fireflies light up and the visitors and yourself, will murmur in excitement. Children are hushed kindly as not to disturb the magic of the evening. You will feel like a little kid in a children's book when the fairy like scene unfolds itself in front of you. Half an hour later is the busiest time with fireflies flitting above the stream and sometimes crossing the path so you can almost touch them.

Firefly Festival at Uji Botanical Garden started at May 26th and you can still enjoy the fireflies until the 17th of June. Extended opening hours apply during the festival, until 21:30 o'clock. In the Kansai region I know of three other spots that celebrate firefly festivals. I'll try and visit at least one of these other festivals and tell you about it at So Kyoto!

Keihanna Commemorative Park
At the Suikei garden at Seika Tow. Through June 17th.
I posted earlier about the Suikei-en, see this article.

Tanikawa Firefly Park
On the Minamitani River, at the Town of Ide. Throughout summer.

Kanbayashi-sanso villa
At the City of Ayabe. Mid-June.

PS: I know these pictures are definitely not the best firefly pictures out there! I do not have the proper equipment for  these hard conditions, being in... total darkness :) It's more about fun and imagination. And I needed some pictures to go with this story after all!

B-B Paradise: Roof top Beer Garden at New Hankyu Hotel

Rather coincidentally I ended up, with company, in the Beer Garden on the roof top of New Hankyu Hotel, opposite Kyoto Station. It was a wonderful change from eating inside, which is almost unavoidable when eating out in Japan. On the roof top a nice breeze welcomed us at the end of on another very warm day. Mind you, I'M not complaining the rather cold month of March changed almost overnight in pleasantly warm summer-weather two months ago, speaking as a Dutch person. It is true the weather is getting warmer by the day, but I can not and will not complain. Even though Japanese inhabitants keep telling me I'm somewhat crazy wanting to spend the summer months in Japan! What I am curious about is the reason why Japan lacks cafe's and restaurants with an outdoor space (in the shadow mind you!). The Japanese seem to prefer to drink and eat inside, where the air conditioning happily blasts all your warm weather worries away. Well, maybe that's not so strange if you are used to the hot summers. Since I'm not, I greedily spend a lot of time outside and keep my eye out for possibilities doing this with a nice, cold drink in my hand, maybe even a bite or two.

What is surprising then maybe, is that the roof top Beer Garden was packed with jolly groups of 'salarymen' with here and there some couples and elderly people joining in the merriness. My company and I were the only 'gaijin' (this literally means 'foreigner' in Japanese), but not the only ones who craved some outdoors entertainment apparently. Or was it just the all-you-can-eat-and-drink offer that lured the Japanese out in the open? Which ever it was, the atmosphere was as happy as can be. Even though some groups got louder and louder and disproportionately enthusiastic with every new plate of 'Wieners' their colleagues brought over. Drunk the Japanese can still be courteous and the mood only gets livelier. (And funnier, see the girl in the picture above taking pictures of her beer)

This event started at the end of April and will last until the end of September! It is a not-to-miss experience. There should be about 5 or 6 of these Beer Gardens in Kyoto alone (I wrote an article about Kyoto Tower's Beer Garden here), so that should be enough to make your head spin.

For more information about the New Hankyu Hotel Beer Garden, visit the B-B Paradise website (Japanese).

Kyoto artDive #06, Art Festa with a high cuteness factor

Miyako Messe seems to offer Kyoto quite some different events to replenish the cultural and creative hart. I've attended a traditional crafts fair, kimono exhibition, and an antique books fair was held I wanted to attend to. This weekend, Kyoto Art Festa was held, the 6th artDive. Personally I'm not completely sure I would call the works on show art. But at least a lot of creative minds game together and offered a whole range of kawaii (Japanese for cute). For art with an 'A' I would recommend ART Kyoto. See my article about this event here.

Whatever the term used, it doesn't matter. There was something for everyone at artDive #06 with 220 booths and 330 creative people selling their works. There were paintings, 3D art works, jewelry, T-shirts, candles, wind chimes, wood craft, bags, furniture and lot's of illustrations! There was even an ARTs*LABo Postcard Exhibition, with 1000 postcards to choose from. So everyone literally could take home a little piece of art. Next to the Postcard Exhibition was the 'Sakura Exhibition', showing 230 Cherry Blossom pieces. A project to market and attract more international interest to the young and upcoming artists. Japan would like to attract the worlds attention to their artistic talent as Japans cherry blossoms already do. It was a great showcase of Japans illustration talent!

The talent on showcase was wonderful but I would have liked to see a bit more 'cool' and attitude. A big fan of kawaii articles myself, I wouldn't have minded for diversities sake to see some vinyl toys for instance or more booths with big art works. This time the girly girls ruled big time with small works, I hope autumn will deliver a little more 'swagger'.

Apart from art work already finished, Live Paint Booths gave a very interesting view on the creators method of working. Which was completely different for all of them. I especially liked that the booths were so conveniently placed opposite the artDive café. A perfect place to enjoy a B.L.T. and ice coffee and watch the art works come to life.

If you missed the artDive on May 19th and 20th, you don't have to wait for a year. The next will be held this autumn, October 20th and 21st. Would you like to go, here's a link to the website.

See Kyoto's maiko & geisha dance and get a glimpse of their mysterious world

Kyoto knows five geisha districts, namely Miyagawa-cho Kabu-kai, Ponto-cho Hanamachi, Gion Kobu, Gion Higashi Kabu-kai and Kamishichiken Kabu-kai. Geisha are formally called, geiko and apprentice geiko are called maiko. Each one of these districts in Kyoto have their own theatre where geiko and maiko perform their elegant dances every year. Four of the performances are held in spring, one in the fall.

At none of the stages it is allowed to take pictures unfortunately. But outside the theaters, in the geisha districts, there are enough chances to see maiko and geiko rushing to and from the theatre. You must be quick though, most are in a rush and are not really inclined to stand still for long. They are working of course, so don't try to stop them for your convenience of taking their picture (as many tourist would like to or maybe tries). If you are lucky some maiko and geiko attend the theatre as spectators themselves and meet friends or acquaintances in front of the theatre where you can snap them more easily, if you like to do so.

Dance performance at Miyagawacho Kabu-kai
The picture's above were taken at geisha district Miyagawacho Kabu-kai. The one picture of the stage is from "Kyoto Visitors Guide'. The spring dance of Miyagawacho is called the "Kyo Odori" (Kyoto Dance). The first performance was held in 1950 and enjoyed great popularity since then. After the fifth performance the stage was moved temporarily, but in 1969 the new Miyagawa-cho Kaburen-jo Theater was completed and the dance returned to its original location.

The dance is preformed only in the first two weeks of april. Tickets are quite easily obtained from the ticket office in front of the theatre. If you get there early in the morning to buy the tickets, you have more choice where to sit. The performance shows famous places and stories of Kyoto as a background. Traditional music will be played live on stage by the musicians. Not only dance, but some theatre, or musical-like performance, will be shown as well. Even some of the performers will dress up as men to play the roles necessary for the story. Which is a comical and strange sight knowing a very elegant and sophisticated girl is underneath the 'pomp' and 'swagger' the role of men ask for. The best part of the show is the end dance where every performer comes on stage and they dance all together in their colorful kimono using fans to emphasize their elegant movements.

Dance performance at Ponto-cho Hanamachi
The dance is called Kamogawa Odori (Kamo River Dance) and started in 1872 as part of the Kyoto Exposition. It has been performed annually since and provides a show with a wide range of fans. This is the last spring dance event, from May 1st -24th. So there is still a week to attend it this year!

Dance performance at Gion Kobu
The First performance, called Miyako Odori (Dance of the Capital), was held in 1872 to  the Exhibition for the Promotion of Domestic Industry. Kyoto struggled hard after the capitol of Japan was moved to Tokyo in 1869. Although the performance has a long history, each year the dance is different and this has made it very popular. Held from April 1st - 30th.

Dance performance at Gion Higashi Kabu-kai
The dance is simply called Gion Odori (Gion Dance) and was first performed in 1953. The dance is known for for its original planning and composition. This performance is the only one in autumn and held from November 1st - 10th.

Dance performance at Kamishichiken Kabu-kai
The performance is called Kitano Odori (Kitano Dance) and officially begun 1952. The Kitano Club and the Mando Club danced jointly in commemoration of the 1050th anniversary of Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine. It is known to be both elite and tasteful. Held from April 15th - 25th.

Midosuji Festa, 10th anniversary of Osaka's Street Fair

Osaka celebrated it's rich culture this week with a 10th anniversary party of the Midosuji Open Festa, known in short today as the Midosuji Festa. The aim of the organization of this very busy street fair is to attract more visitors to Osaka as a whole and to the Midosuji Avenue and Minami neighbourhood in particular. An 'urban regeneration' is what they call it. Minami and Midosuji though are very different neighborhoods. Midosuji Avenue represents the high end visitor with all the big brands and their flag ship stores like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Cartier, Hermès and Dior. Minami attracts a younger, more urban public. There you'll find the new trends, or shops for all kinds of subcultures, but also clubs, small restaurants and izakaya.

But maybe when it comes to open air street fun, like music, dance, art, fashion and sports, the public is not so different! Last year the Festa was flooded with 370,000 visitors. I would not be surprised if the Midosuji Festa 2012 attracted even more. The Festa sure could count on the weather for support, it was a great 21 °C, a prefect day for a street fair. The downside of these perfect conditions, not surprisingly, are the huge numbers of visitors. All dance, sports and music performances were on street level, not on a podium. That way everyone crowds around, so if you're not on the front row, tough. If you have a preference to see something, try to find a spot beforehand and stick with it. It would give you the chance to then see all the dance performances, or all sports performances for instance. Because those are all held continuously through the day, by different groups.

I would recommend the dance groups. They are always so very energetic, happy and colourful! The groups consist mostly of very young dancers to sometimes quit old and they are with many. Several play their own (small) instruments or shout out yells to the music. See at least a show or three, you're in for a superb spectacle. The sports performances differed greatly, but all had their own appeal. Some funny (basketball), some exiting (tae kwon do), and some awe inspiring (karate). If you like to take it low-key, watch a fashion show, or go to the 'beauty salon' where you can have your hair or nails done. Why not?! All in all, the day had a very positive and happy vibe.

An izakaya in Kyoto

Sometimes you'll find a place that you like so much, you want to keep it for yourself, and your friends. It is your secret 'hide out'. There is one such a place in Kyoto I'm happy to have found a few years ago and I keep coming back.

An izakaya is a traditional bar that also serves food and many izakaya serve food of such high quality you won't only come back for the drinks. This izakaya offers over 300 sake! The names of the sake are written on little sheets of paper, and plastered on the walls which makes for the distinctive and fun appearance of the place. The fish and vegetables dishes depend on the fresh produce of the day therefore the menu is also hand written, only in Japanese. With a bit of understanding of the language you can get around to order and otherwise point at your neighbours' table if they are served a dish that appeals to you. A fun fact: rice or noodles traditionally are not served at an izakaya along with sake, because sake is brewed from rice, and takes the place of rice in a meal.

It is just as well that the menu is in Japanese and doesn't have any pictures, like many other izakaya and restaurants in Japan have. The picture menu's make it easy for tourists to order and make restaurants with these menu's sought after by the less adventurous westerner. As it happens, I'm content spending an evening at a restaurant being the only westerner (including company). It is rather silly, I'm fully aware, but the atmosphere of an establishment changes much when there are many tourists around. Of course I'm also a tourist, but even so I treasure the places that are the least 'touristy'.

The establishment is run by a family of four, father, mother and two sons who all work really hard. As it is common in Japan to smoke in restaurants (which baffles me still, with their appreciation for good quality food), the back of the bar has tatami matting and that's where smoking is allowed.

If you are lucky, you might pass by this place while in Kyoto once and recognize it from the pictures above. Don't hesitate but try a few dishes and sake to accompany them! It's not the cheapest spot around, but the amazing dishes and friendly atmosphere make it worth while. There wasn't a time we visited this place did not end up talking to the patrons at some neighboring table and sometimes even get treated on a dish or some sake. The Kyotites in this place are infused with the casual and friendly atmosphere izakaya are famous for.

Ok, I'll help you out: the name of this izakaya is 'Sea'.

Picture dream opportunity; a taxi driver tries to take the stairs!

Strolling through town with my camera at the ready I never actually dreamed of an opportunity like this! At the Higashi Hon Ganji temple a taxi driver scratches his head while a man of the Japanese AA tries to pry his car loose from the temple stairs, with danger to his own safety it seemed to me. Imagine what a shock it must have been for him, and his 'load'! The onlookers thought it all quite funny though and of course many cell phones whirred also into action :)