The regal Lotus, viewings at Mimurotoji, Hōkongōin & Mizunomori

If you follow this blog for a bit you might know I'm sort of a flower-buff! In an earlier article I wrote about Ajisai, or Hydrangea, the flower of early summer. The Sanzen-in at Ohara, as well as Mimurotoji in Uji are famous places to see Ajisai. But, when the hydragea's power is wilting it gives way to another star in the flower kingdom, the Lotus. A very important flower in Buddhist religion, it's no wonder Buddhist temple Mimuroto is one of the best places to contemplate this iconic flower. Mimurotoji however, does not exactly sport that natural flower pond, which you would expect. But the square in front of the temple contains some oblong cement basins surrounded by big flower pots all around. It is not as natural an environment as one might wish for, but through the abundance and the beauty of the many blooming pink and white lotus flowers, it is one of the best picks indeed. Not to mention the hugely impressive bull frogs or amazingly beautiful big dragon flies! I never heard the sound of a bull frog before, let alone seen one. So when I heard one calling out from between the lotus leaves it gave me quite a scare for a second. When I realised that is was a bull frog, I was completely fascinated. It's a sound you should really hear, or even 'experience', at least once in a lifetime!

The good thing about the solution with the flower pots is that you can get up close and personal with the flowers and study them from every side. It's intriguing to examine the beautiful lotus from this close. Their hearts are tremendously interesting, it's almost sensual how they are created to attract insects.

After visiting Mimurotoji on July 9th, I wanted to see more of the queen amongst the flowers. So I planned for a trip to Houkongouin, in the west of Kyoto. The grounds of the Hōkongō temple are quite a bit smaller than of the Mimurotoji and are located in a rural area. What immediately stands out when entering the garden is the utterly ugly building, towering over the green fence of trees. A sore to the eye unfortunately. But when you succeed in ignoring this monstrosity you will find that 'natural' flower pond in front of the temple. And it's completely taken over by the huge leaves of the Lotus flower. Indeed, regrettably there were almost only leaves to admire. It must be a pretty great sight when the lotus flowers, but now I could only find one or two in bloom. There were also a few flower buds, but nowhere near of coming to blossom.

I understand that the Lotus has it's flowering peak around the first week of July and blooms till the end of August. So I thought I was right(ish) on time when I was visiting on July 18th. Maybe the pond gets a second peak period when the flower buds I've seen get to blossom. The garden however is rather charming, and has more to offer. For instance tiny waterlillies in their little basins and also Hydrangea (at their prime around the half of June). Otherwise it's not the most interesting temple in Kyoto. Which might be truly unfair, because Kyoto knows so many temples and shrines, it's hard to compete!

Knowing that the Lotus would probably be over it's prime, was it maybe a tad risky to take another Lotus trip? Perhaps, but I am glad I did. This time on July 23rd and the location was Mizunomori. Mizunomori is an 'aquapark' as they call it. A botanical garden, right next to an inlet of Biwa Lake, in the vicinity of Kusatsu and Otsu. You don't actually have to enter the garden to see the Lotus field in Biwa Lake, but why wouldn't you? It's a pleasant garden with a an abundance of flowers, specially the small types of multi coloured water lillies are really nice to see. Have a stroll through the garden en then exit at the back to see the Lotus field in the lake (You can re-enter Mizunomori). Indeed, a big part of the Lotus field was without flowers, but a good part on the east side was still blooming beautifully. It would have been a hugely impressive sight had the whole field been in bloom, but I was completely satisfied I had the chance to see it as it was.

Tip: The bus from Kusatsu drives up and down in 30 minutes to Mizunomori only once an hour.  Keep this in mind when taking the train, so you don't miss the buss by a minute or two (guess who did). Both the station square and Mizunomori have a cafe, so lunch and drinks are no problem. 
Take the same bus frequency in consideration for Mimurotoji in Uji, although you have to time your trip there even better, because there are no cafes near the temple.

Early summer, the cool blue of Ajisai (Hydrangea) at Sanzen-in

Summer in Kyoto is getting hotter and hotter every day! Time to take a 'hike' and look for higher ground. Ohara, in the north part of Kyoto is up in the mountains and at least a few degrees 'colder'. Pfieuw I need a bit of that! So, on a sweltering hot day I thought it best to leave the busy city behind and visit this lush green side of Kyoto. Early summer, we've established now, the weather in Japan is very hot already. But it's also the time for Ajisai. This is the Japanese name for Hydrangea.

Ohara is famous for their Sanzen-in temple every day of the year, but even more so when the Ajisai are in bloom. What a wonderful combination when being all flustered and sticky with the summer heat to gaze upon the cool blue of Hydrangea flowers. Although I must admit under the piercing sun even the Ajisai seemed a bit listless in the garden of Sanzen-in. And to think I even 'dressed up' for the occasion, with my Ajisai-coloured nail polish!

Luckily the temple itself is wonderful, and I especially liked the charming little, moss covered Buddha statues with their smiling faces. Or what about a good taste of red Shiso juice I got for free in the garden? Shiso is one of my favorite flavours of Japan. A leaf belonging to the mint family, often served with sashimi dishes has a very unique and distinctive taste. If you've never tried it, find them, it's delicious! If you prefer a saver taste, you can drink green tea and peer over the blue ripples of Hydrangea beneath the tea house.

The Sanzen-in is not even the only thing to see at Ohara. It's got quite a 'touristy feel', this part of town, but only busy on special days. For instance Ohara-me, a festival I wrote about in this article in May. Because of the numerous tourists Ohara attracts through the year, many traditional Japanese restaurants grace the small, cobbled streets where Yuzu (an amazing tasting citrus fruit), red Shiso and other yummy food can be tasted. If you're a fan of Tsukemono (Japanese pickles), Ohara is a good place to stroll through and get a nibble here and there.

Mimuroto-ji temple in Uji, to the south of Kyoto, is also very famous for their Ajisai as well as the Lotus garden. When I went to Mimurotoji however, the Hydrangea were over their peak and many bushes already trimmed. I read that at this temple 10.000 Hydrangea bushes grow. Surprisingly, when I was there visitors were not even allowed to go into that part of the garden were the Hydrangea were still blooming.... But I could look into the garden and take a few snap shots. It does look promising doesn't it?


Later this  month I will post an article about the Lotus garden of Mimuroto-ji.

Picasso & Yoshitomo Nara at Shigaraki Museum of Contemporary Ceramic Arts

There is still a week left of the wonderful exhibition called DOKI DOKI at the Museum of Contemporary Ceramic Art in Shigaraki (SCCP). I visited the exhibition a few days ago and I had such a fun day! The exhibit brings together ceramic art works of some really famous international and Japanese artists, living and diseased. Some of them normally do not use ceramics as a regular medium to express their art. Included in the exhibition were painters such as Pablo Picasso, or print artists as Tadanori Yokoo and Shoichi Ida (Ida just had a solo exhibit at MOMAK, I wrote about in the previous post).

Furthermore there were works of ceramics artists like the one form Naoki Koide, the Cloud Theater. A fun and humorous work that I loved. One of his other works I've seen at ART Kyoto, which I wrote about earlier this year (+ top left picture). Another work I was interested in is by the American Richard Shaw, Shigaraki 2001, where a house of cards is stacked on a tea cup, on a book, all of ceramics of course (similar to this piece). One of my favorite works in this exhibit is by the Finnish artist Kim Simonsson, called Alien Tattoo. It is a boy, life size, all in white with big anime-like eyes and hair, opening his shirt showing a tattoo. And of course I wanted to see the two pieces of the very famous Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara. Not in the least because he is the famous artist of my dearest friend in the Netherlands. I am really sorry I do not have pictures of the exhibit, except from the wonderful ethereal work 'Harushuuu' by Haruki Takahashi. This was the only piece I was allowed to photograph (two bottom pictures, right). That is why I included all those links and the poster, front/back. I'm hope you'll have the opportunity to see for yourself this week!

After a visit to the museum I wandered around the Ceramic Park and got to meet briefly with Leiko Ikemura herself! A few of her works were exhibited at DOKI DOKI. Ikemura was now briefly over from Germany, for the opening of the Toyota museum, where her works will also be shown. She is an hugely accomplished lady, with an impressive resumé. 

Apart from a wonderful Shigaraki Ceramic Cultural Park, the town is dotted with many ceramic shops, since 'Shigaraki ware' is what the village is famous for. From every shop the hundreds of tiny surrounding one huge tanuki stare you down. The biggest tanuki has rested it's huge bulk at the station square. Want to make a call? You have to dare with him looming over you! A tanuki is a legendary Japanese raccoon dog with magic powers. He's a shape shifter and can turn into anything! He's a mischievous and jolly creature so be sure you really buy a ceramic one and not take the magical creature home. That one can dissapear in to thin air once you leave Shigaraki :)

Accept for tanuki, and ceramic frogs, cats, vases and other paraphernalia, there's not much else to see in Shigaraki, but the wonderful mountains. However dull the village may seem, surrounded by this much beautiful nature, you leave Shigaraki with a happy hart!

PS: The vase/horse piece (bottom left) I've found in one of the office buildings of the Ceramics Park. It's by Keiko Matsumo. I am in awe of her work and dream to be able to visit a (solo) exhibition one time.

Slaying snakes for a 1000 years at Kuramadera

June 20th I visited Kurama-dera (Kurama temple) to attend the yearly Bamboo Cutting ceremony. Or, as the matsuri is called in Japanese 'Takekiri Eshiki', which takes place at the Kuramadera, a temple and national treasure of Japan, built high on the Kurama mountain.

Coming from the train at the foot of Mount Kurama, I got served instant happiness. The smell of the mountain, the pine trees lining the slopes, filled my nose immediately and I could not help but smile. The ride up there by train is a feast already, but the walk up the mountain let to even more great views. I come from a flat country, so the mountains fill me with awe every time I am near. The higher I got on Mount Kurama, the more giddy. Or was it just the mountain air?…

It took me quite a while to get to the temple up the mountain, because I just had to savor the view every time I got a glimpse through the trees. And to think I took the Cable train for a bit! (I am, and will be a city girl I'm afraid… although my legs don't bother anymore to count all the meters  they've walked in the past few months!) Anyway Mt. Kurama is 584 meters high, so to reach the temple that's one good climb! Lazy me, I took the short route. Literally. The Kurama railway is the shortest in the country, just 200 meters long. So it takes only 2 minutes. If you prefer to walk, what the temple recommends, you'll need about 30 minutes. A very steep climb that is, you are warned! And then you aren't even finished, there are even many more steps ahead of you. To make it all the more pleasurable, the ceremony is in June, when the weather is very hot and humid in Japan, so go figure. I admit, some malicious pleasure washed over me when I saw the unhappy and panting souls that had chosen the 'righteous' path…

The ceremony consists of two teams of priests who race to slay 'the snake' once again as their predecessor priest Minenobu has done a thousand years ago. The story goes that at Mt. Kurama a snake suddenly appeared in front of the priest and it was slain by using the power of Buddhism. Until this day a matsuri is held to commemorate this event, with a bamboo cutting ceremony to help destroy wickedness and the establishment of righteousness. (An appreciation for water is expressed as well.) During the bamboo cutting ceremony the monk Kurama, dressed as a warrior priest, foretells whether the harvest will be rich or poor, as he demonstrates how fast he can cut the bamboo.

I wasn't at all clear to me that it was supposed to be a race though, I had to find out afterwards when doing research. No less fun even so, it was rather an entertaining and clumsy sight seeing the monks pottering around with the 4 meter long bamboo stalks and which priest would stand where holding it! But when handling the swords…, another thing. You would want to stay on the good side with those priests!

As you might have noticed, the snake in the tale is replaced by long bamboo stalks. These have to be cut in pieces three times, for the 'snake' to be conquered. I have to say I'm quite pleased about the use of bamboo. I wouldn't have wanted to see real snakes cut to pieces. Having to warn Greenpeace and all that would have taken a bit of the pleasure out of the whole thing I imagine.

Catching Kingfisher 'in the wild'

Even is you're not a fervent bird watcher, one can only be in awe of the beauty of this little one. And in Kyoto you only have to take a subway ride to see them 'in the wild'. Kyoto's Botanical Garden is obviously favorited by the colourful birds with their big head and long bill. When I reached the Nakaragi pond, two Kingfisher were flying on and of, catching small fish in flight. I approached carefully though. Another photographer, looking very serious, was aiming for them already. My presence with a meager 200mm lens was condoned however when I showed proper respect and kept quiet.

It seems this spot at the Kyoto Botanical Garden is well known amongst Kingfisher enthusiasts. When I went back a few days later I found not only one, but three photographers with huge camera's. One was as long as my arm and had a lens as big as my face! This one even had a sticker of the Kingfisher on his camera. After some time waiting together at the rainy pond with a gaijin woman in their midst  the three relaxed a bit and began showing me their pictures of the Kingfisher on their camera. Obviously beautiful pictures! Well, I could only show them mine, didn't I?! So, I showed them the picture above and I think they were a little impressed that I succeeded with my very small, unimpressive camera. At least it was Nikon, a Japanese brand! We waited some more, but the rain was maybe too heavy, the Kingfisher did not show itself.

Kyoto's Botanical Garden should be one of the most beautiful ones of Japan. Actually, I hope this is not true. The expansive grounds measuring 240,000 m2 might be a bit too much work for the gardeners. At the entrance I got a cold welcome with big lawns of concrete. After that I couldn't find the immaculate tidiness, which Japan is so famous for, anywhere in the garden. Even Wikipedia sums up 'well-tended' in the first sentence about botanical gardens, so not too much to expect.
Although there is beauty to be found. For instance the Ume (Plum) grove, the Japanese Iris garden and the Nakaragi pond are great. I expect the Lotus pond to be amzing when it is in bloom, or earlier in the year when it is lined with blossoming cherry trees. The Japanese style garden however was non-existent (!) and the Japanese Native Plants garden looked like it was forgotten for about a few years as well as the 'exhibition' of bonsai trees… Rather strange for a botanical garden in Japan.

The Kyoto Botanical Garden however lies in a nice neighbourhood, at Kitayama subway station. And it's only 200 yen, so there's nothing to loose (The conservatory is another 200 yen). You can also take a stroll along the beautiful Kamo river or take lunch at one of the various cafe's opposite the Kitayama Gate.

Pop culture and ancient tradition, all in one day at Takarazuka

Takarazuka is a one hour car drive away from Kyoto (or two hours by train). An otherwise unremarkable city that knows two tourist attractions that are complete opposites when it comes to culture. First, the Tessai Memorial Museum, a private museum within the grounds of a 1200 years old Kiyoshikojin Seicho-ji temple, a token of ancient tradition. Second, the Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum, the pride and joy of Takarazuka's more recent history of pop culture. Both of these locations are well worth a day trip, and why not combine the two for an interesting perspective?

Tezuka Osamu Manga Museum was founded in memory of their former resident Tezuka Osamu (1928 – 1989). Osamu was a Japanese cartoon- and manga artist, born in Osaka Prefecture and famous for creating Astro Boy, Black Jack and Kimba the White Lion. The last would later become the subject of great controversy between Tezuka's Mushi Production and the Walt Disney company. Disney never wanted to acknowledge that the movie, 'The Lion King' was based on characters and situations from Tezuka's 'Jungle Emperor'. The Walt Disney company states that the similarities are all coincidental…

Apart from this, there is a whole lot more interesting about the work of Tezuka Osamu since the 'Godfather of Anime' produced 700 manga in the 60 years he lived. Apart from being renowned for his work in manga and the inventor of the 'large eyes style', he was a well know activist for nature. He even started creating manga stories as a way to try and inspire people to care for the world. Something that he has been using as an important subject in his works all though his life.

The happy, little museum has a charming atmosphere, starting with rows of tubes telling the history of Osamu and Mushi Production (mushi means 'bug' in Japanese). The museum also has a library where you can actually read the manga, a screening room, temporary exhibits of Osamu's work, a Jungle Cafe, shop, manga workshop space and some more.

After a dose of pop culture it's time to take a trip to Kiyoshikojin Seicho-ji temple complex up in the hills, for some Buddhist art (pictures below). A taxi will cost between 800 and 1000 yen, or you can take the bus, once every hour or so.

The complex is set in one of the most beautiful places I've seen for a temple. Apart from the food, incense and flower stalls leading up there, a quite and remote atmosphere takes hold of you once you enter through the San-mon Gate. I imagine it can get really crowded, but on a regular day, you're virtually on your own. Take a look around, specially at the Gohô-dô (Hall to protect Buddhist teaching). Here you'll find strings of hundreds of origami paper folded cranes hanging in colorful clusters.

The temple grounds hold two museums. The first you'll see is the museum of History and Art. A wonderful contemporary building existing of glass panels on all four sides. It is built to offer a relaxing place for body and mind, through the attention that went in climate control and lighting, but also coming from the the water panels and the lawn surrounding the glass building for instance.

If you then stay to the right and walk past the statue 'Mizukake Jizô', the path winds up to the Tessai Museum. A more stern looking building, with a tranquil atmosphere nonetheless and very exquisite although introvert through the use of the best materials, like wood, fabric and tiles. The Kiyoshikojin Seicho-ji temple has had a strong connection with Buddhist calligrapher and painter Tassai Tomioka (1836-1924) and accumulated over a thousand of his works through the years. All year different exhibitions are held showing work of Tessai.
Personally Tessai's art is not my cup of 'cha', but I would recommend to visit the exquisite temple grounds and who knows? You can visit one or two exhibits and might like what you see there also!

Fireflies in Uji, like magic from a children's book

Yesterday evening, around 19:30 o'clock I enjoyed one of the greatest experiences of this trip, at least! I went firefly viewing at Uji's Botanical Garden. A charming, small garden nonetheless, yesterday was all about the fireflies.

At the east of the garden a little stream flows pleasantly through the Maple grove (Momiji Bayashi) and the Konara oak Grove (Konara Bayashi). It  offers the fireflies a dense 'forest' with a lot of ground foliage where they can safely fly about. Look for the darkest spots, that's where you find them. Actually, the very best spot is at the right from the small pond at the far end of the Konara Bayashi between the low bamboo plants.

Each day, the website shows a summary of the day before, with the amount of fireflies flying and of cars on the parking deck. (Busses 240 and 250 also drive back and fourth between the Botanical Garden and Uji Station). Yesterday seemed the perfect evening, since around 8 o'clock the fireflies were ''flying a lot'' and the car deck was almost empty. What more can you wish for?

The best time of the evening is between 19 and 19:30 o'clock, when the first fireflies light up and the visitors and yourself, will murmur in excitement. Children are hushed kindly as not to disturb the magic of the evening. You will feel like a little kid in a children's book when the fairy like scene unfolds itself in front of you. Half an hour later is the busiest time with fireflies flitting above the stream and sometimes crossing the path so you can almost touch them.

Firefly Festival at Uji Botanical Garden started at May 26th and you can still enjoy the fireflies until the 17th of June. Extended opening hours apply during the festival, until 21:30 o'clock. In the Kansai region I know of three other spots that celebrate firefly festivals. I'll try and visit at least one of these other festivals and tell you about it at So Kyoto!

Keihanna Commemorative Park
At the Suikei garden at Seika Tow. Through June 17th.
I posted earlier about the Suikei-en, see this article.

Tanikawa Firefly Park
On the Minamitani River, at the Town of Ide. Throughout summer.

Kanbayashi-sanso villa
At the City of Ayabe. Mid-June.

PS: I know these pictures are definitely not the best firefly pictures out there! I do not have the proper equipment for  these hard conditions, being in... total darkness :) It's more about fun and imagination. And I needed some pictures to go with this story after all!

Ohara-me festival celebrates the strong women of Ohara

In the north of Kyoto, in Sakyo Ward, lies a pitoresque mountain village called Ohara. Very much in the rural area, the lives of the inhabitants of Ohara is still for the most part about farming. The women of Ohara are famous for it even. Wearing traditional farm clothing, they are called 'Oharame'. These women come to the city of Kyoto still today, selling mostly vegetables and sometimes flowers. Nowadays they use pull carts, but mostly small trucks. In earlier times the women carried their loads on their heads.

As part of the Aoi festival, from May 1st till May 15th, lost of festivals (matsuri) are celebrated all over the Kyoto area, every day. At Ohara on May 12th, the girls and women of Ohara wear their traditional costumes, stemming from the Muromachi era. From the very young to the old, they are all proud of their ancestry. The Oharame walk in procession through their village starting at the Shorin-in (temple). And since Ohara is not only famous for it's strong women, but also for their many temples, the procession get's a beautiful and ancient background. One of the most famous temples of Ohara, Hosen-in is included in the tour too. The procession ends after two kilometers, at the Sanzen-in temple. At the starting point, however you'll get ample time to take pictures. There is even an official moment to take a group portrait. Which a lot of beaming grand-parents do!

Furthermore Ohara has a charming shopping street up the mountain where local products are sold, like pickles, jams, wooden and leather wares, furoshiki and more. But the most beautiful about Ohara is just strolling around, walking through the mountainous landscape and savour the view.

Six weeks of blossom viewing, breathtakingly beautiful

This is the fifth time I'm visiting Japan, but the first time I had the opportunity to really watch the spectacle and metamorphosis of the land and it's people during blossom season. To take it all in, at least I had all the time in the world this year round and made 16 trips to watch this famous spectacle!

And just as well, I took about 400 photo's starting from March 14th when the plum blossom (ume) started blossoming until just yesterday I took some pictures near my home of some late blossoming cherry trees (sakura). And there are still trees that won't give up and spread their wealth of flowers and perfume!

It might seem the blossom season only lasts one week, the first week of April is one of the busiest times in Kyoto most years, but I found the season can take up to eight weeks. Depending on the weather of course and the region you're in. Another fact I was not aware of is that, for instance, Tokyo is way ahead of Kyoto when it comes to the timing of the blossoming trees, although Tokyo lies 465 km (288 mi) farther north. Well, there you go, traveling up from the south of Japan up north to the beat of sakura isn't even all that simple!

During the past six weeks I learned some more about blossoms. It seems 'ume' for the Japanese is not as breathtakingly thrilling as sakura is. As I was informed by a Japanese lady that sakura season was coming up, I enthusiastically showed her the pictures I already took at the Zuishin-in during the Hanezu Odori Dance. She was not impressed, because these showed plum blossom, not cherry blossom. Well, that's one lesson learned. I was indeed a bit surprised by the vigour the Japanese show at seeing one tiny petal of sakura. They immediately flip out their mobile phones or swoop in with whole kitchen steps and professional bags full of lenses to get the right angle. But, I must admit, after a few 'Hanami' trips I am taken by the sakura-fever too! (Hanami literately means 'flower viewing', and than means cherry blossom in Japan as we've learned now).

I rated the trips I made by the best blossom viewing:
1. Miho museum in Shiga. I went there two times even, because the first time it was too early for the blossom as it turned out. The second time I got rewarded with a sea of bright pink. The Miho museum strangely enough is not well known, even by the Japanese, so there were almost no other visitors (at 10:00 - 11:00 am). which, in a way is a goo thing when you go blossom viewing! Here's a link to my earlier Miho Museum article. On the way back from the museum (by car) I passed the little town of Ritto and was treated on a wealth of sakura lining the river! (1b)

2. Near Ashiyagawa station at Ashiya, west of Osaka. Tranquility and pleasantness, at the peak of the sakura season. Seat yourself on the grassy banks of the river, and hear the water flow while your eyes are on the sakura and the mountains above. Pure bliss.

3. Along the river between station Shukugawa and Koroen station in Nishinomya, west of Osaka. A wonderful place, a great photo opportunity. However, far more crowded than Ashiya, but very beautiful nonetheless.

4. Along the Kamogawa River, near Kyoto Botanical Garden. An oasis to spend a day and have a picnic, even without sakura! The cherry trees reach as far as the eyes can see, both ways. Note that the darker pink weeping cherry trees, along Nakaragi-no-michi path, blossom a while later in the season.

5. Kiyomizudera and Higashiyama (5b), including San-Mon Gate (5c) in front of Chion-in in Kyoto. The neighbourhood around Kiyomizudera is one of my favorite places to stroll through. There are a lot of easy photo opportunities here, also with lovely kimono clad girls (ask nicely and they pose for you!). Sometimes you even meet maiko-henshin (tourists that are dressed up for the day as maiko, which is an apprentice geisha). Note that Higashiyama is also one of the busiest places in Kyoto, so go really early. The views from Kiyomuzudera over the mountain beneath dotted with sakura trees is beautiful.

6. Zuishin-in in Kyoto (ume blossom), during the Hanezu Odori Dance. The temple is known for it's 'Hanezu Plum Trees', hanezu meaning a light red colour in Japanese. It's one of my favorites , because of the dance event and I happen to love ume. Plus it were the first trees blossoming in Kyoto and has great photo opportunities, also of other photographers! Here's a link to my earlier article about the Zuishin-in Plum Blossom Festival.

7. Honryuji Temple at Kyoto. The perfume these trees radiate is enormous! A very special, quiet place where you'll probably only meet one or two other photographers, even at the peak of the sakura season.

8. Philosophers Path (Tetsugaku no michi) at Kyoto. I went two times as it is one of the most popular spots. As it turned out it is really hard to time well with sakura, because the neighborhood around Philosophers Path was teeming with blossom, the Patch itself was barren, showing a wintery scene. Not much fun. A few weeks later, when I went back, it was a bit too late for sakura. However it is a very pleasant path once the trees have their foliage and I would definitely recommend a stroll on a beautiful day!

9. The north side of Keage (station) at Kyoto. From the old Boat Railway and Lake Biwa Aquaduct Museum, that show many sakura trees. Then take the Shishigatani-dori and feel yourself enveloped by ancient Kyoto with numerous temples along the road, dotted with sakura trees here and there. This road leads to Philosophers Path.

10. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. An amazing place which I later will make a post about. But I was not there when the sakura was at it's best so I can't really tell about that. But even without sakura the temple complex feels mystical and has an ancient atmosphere, be sure to not miss it while in Kyoto.

11.Tō-ji Temple in Kyoto. I was there during the famous antique market at the end of march. It's my favorite market here, and I was treated on some beautiful ume, but the temple doesn't have many ume trees.This link shows my earlier pictures at Tō-ji Temple. You'd maybe better go during the blossoming of sakura (I haven't been there at the prime time).

12. Kodaji-in at Kyoto. Beautiful garden, specially during the light festival it's worth a visit. But, it has only one sakura tree, so don't expect more than that.

13. Jonan-gu Shrine in Kyoto. Plum tree & Camellia festival. Nice, but challenging photo opportunity. I would advise to go early March, for the Camellia. These and ume do not peak at the same time, so it's difficult to see both at their best.

14. Sakura at Maruyama Park and Yasaka Shrine at Kyoto. This was the biggest disappointment, shock even, of the sakura season! An unparalleled commercial event. It's outrageously popular among the Kyotites for Hanami picnics, taking with them huge amounts of blue plastic and there are loud coloured food stalls everywhere. Yasaka shrine is supposed to be a popular sakura spot, but I thought the sakura was almost non-existent. You better visit Maruyama Park before or after this 'craze' of Hanami picnics.

Apart from the last entry, looking back at these last few eeks, it was all quite impressive! The hardest thing about Hanami was, naturally, that blossom trees don't flower at the same time. And it's very difficult to predict when they are at their best at which location. I found sometimes I was too early and sometimes too late. Ah, nature is unwieldy… I'm keeping my fingers crossed I can 'Hanami' another time!

One of my most treasured experiences in Japan, Miho Museum

Miho, a museum worth a visit for the architecture and the location alone, apart from the collection. Maybe not so strange considering one of the world most famous architects designed it, namely I.M. Pei. The same Pei who designed the glass pyramid of the Louvre in Paris for instance.
With respect for the beautiful nature of the mountains surrounding Shigaraki, the Miho museum is designed so 80% of it is built below ground. Which, strangely enough, isn't really noticeable when walking around. It rather feels light and airy with it's wide spaces, glass roof and big windows. M.I Pei incorporated the Japanese thinking, culture and traditions into the design of the museum and took the old 'Tale of the Peach Blossom' as an inspiration.

The museum building is separated from the parking lot and ticket office by a long tunnel and a bridge. For people less able to walk a 'golf cart-like' shuttle service runs continuously between the two buildings. But walking is preferable, so you can savour the beauty of the tunnel and the cleverness of the bridge, and take in the splendid view on the museum itself. The views from inside the museum to the other side of the mountains will increase your excitement. As a great addition to your visit, take lunch at the Pine View Tea Room with a gorgeous view on a 'private' pine garden. The lunch, however limited the choice is, will give your taste buds a surprise.

The location of Miho musuem is absolutely amazing, but be sure to enjoy the 50 minutes drive from Ishiyma station through rural Shiga also. The road runs along a stream in the mountains and the surroundings are gorgeous (take a seat on the right side of the bus!).
To be able to enjoy the landscape to it's maximum beauty, I would advise to visit Miho museum late April or even later in the year. That's also the time the cherry trees will be at their most beautiful. In early spring, many trees on these mountains, and on the premises of Miho won't have their foliage yet. This takes away some of the beauty, although the sights will still be stunning even so.

I visited Miho museum three times. The first time it was already one of the most memorable experiences I had in Japan and it still is today. The first time it was autumn, which was absolutely amazing with all it's vivid colours. The second time was April 15th this year, and a little too early for the cherry blossoms. Consulting Miho's online sakura report I decided to just go again today. I might never have had another chance to see this amazing spectacle... And it was well worth it!
So be sure to call ahead if you don't want to miss the sakura at it's peak. Mind you, the cherry blossom trees bloom much later here than in Kyoto, because the temperature in the mountains is somewhat lower.

About the collection, the object's displayed range from Japanese tea ceremonial art, Buddhist art, ceramics and other ancient art works from Asia and Western cultures like Greece, Rome and Egypt. More information can be found on the website of Miho Museum (English).

Which of the treasures appeals to you most, the architecture, the landscape or the collection, Miho Museum is sure worth the trip!